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 You don’t have to go to the U.K.: This 60-pound wheel of bandage-wrapped farmstead Cheddar was made in California by Fiscalini Farmstead. Voted voted “Best Farmhouse Cheese” at the 2002 American Cheese Society Awards, it gets our vote, too.
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Product Reviews / Main Nibbles / Cheese-Butter-YogurtCheddar: Ancient Cheese Of MonarchsBorn In England, Now Made Worldwide
My name is Stephanie Zonis, and welcome to Whey to Go! for April, 2006. Every month, we’ll delve into a new cheese-related subject, and I’ll offer a recommendation on a cheese I love.
Cheddar: Ancient Cheese of Monarchs, Modern Cheese of MillionsToday, Cheddar ranks as one of the most popular cheeses in the world. Just within the US, some sources claim that almost 90% of all cheese sold is some type of Cheddar. Certainly, it is the cheese for which England is best known. Let’s take a closer look. Cheddar is an ancient cheese. Supposedly, the cheese takes its name from either the village of Cheddar in Somerset or some nearby caves, which were called the Cheddar Gorge Caves or simply the Cheddar Caves. Cheddar was known as far back as the twelfth century. In 1170, Henry II declared Cheddar the best cheese in England and purchased over five tons of it. Cheddar seems to have been equally admired by his son, Prince John, who purchased a similar quantity in 1184 (presumably, both shared it with others). By the reign of Charles I (1625), demand for Cheddar was so great that it was often sold even before it was made. Queen Victoria was presented with a mammoth Cheddar during her reign, weighing in at over 1200 pounds. As is the case with many other foods, including chocolate, Cheddar gradually became less expensive and more widely available. Today, it can be bought in every supermarket as well as in specialty food stores and cheese shops. But there are Cheddars and there are Cheddars, and the supermarket variety bears little resemblance to what was once a cheese beloved of kings. The biggest reason for that? Cheddar is a cheese distinguished by process, not place. The name “Cheddar” is not protected, as are some other names in the food world, so Cheddar can be made literally anywhere, by anyone. That can result in better availability and less cost, but both frequently come at a price (that is to say, a lesser cheese comes at a lower price). Traditional raw milk Cheddar can be hard to find these days, and the industrial stuff turned out so inexpensively doesn’t deserve the Cheddar name. Sadly, that’s the only type many people know. Cheddar Cheese TodayCheddar originally began as a raw milk cheese because, of course, pasteurization was unknown until long after Cheddar had been formulated. Historically, Cheddar has been a cows’ milk cheese (these days, some companies make a goat’s milk “Cheddar,” however). As is the case with other types of cheese, the milk is initially heated, then starter culture is added, followed by rennet. If coloring is to be added, this is done after the starter culture is in, but before the addition of the rennet; typical sources of coloring for Cheddar are annatto and carotene. If your Cheddar is vivid yellow or orange, coloring has likely been added. Once the curd has reached the correct degree of firmness, it is cut into small pieces, either by machine or by hand. This process helps release the whey from the curds. The curds are then slowly heated and stirred simultaneously, a process referred to as “scalding.” Modern manufacturers trying to cut corners will stop their processes at this point, placing the curds into a mold and pressing them overnight to expel more whey. This is often called “stirred curd Cheddar.”
Aging CheddarOnce the cheese is out of the hoop or mold, it is aged to the desired degree. Traditional English Cheddar is wrapped with cheesecloth (a method called “bandaging”) and often develops mold on its exterior, a natural consequence of the aging process (a few varieties of Cheddar occasionally contain a little interior blue veining, as well). A young Cheddar might be aged for just a few weeks or months. It will be a semi-hard cheese with a smooth, slightly crumbly texture and a mild flavor. The longer a Cheddar ages, the sharper its flavor and the more crumbly its texture will become. American consumers are familiar with designations such as “mild,” “medium,” “sharp,” and even “extra sharp”; but these designations are in the eye—or tastebuds—of the manufacturer. There are no standards for aging time. But as the old saying goes, time is money, so Cheddars aged for longer times will be more expensive and harder to find (not many manufacturers want to take the time or trouble to age their Cheddar for more than 4 years). Are they worth the extra cost and effort? It depends what you like. Truly aged Cheddars (and the oldest I’ve been able to find is aged for 8 years) can be very sharp and strong; they’re not for the faint-hearted. Why Is Cheddar So Popular?
No matter whether you like your Cheddar gentle or robust on the palate, plain or fancy, try a Cheddar made by an artisanal producer who cares about their products. There are some excellent Cheddars made in the U.S. these days. If you’d prefer to try Cheddar made elsewhere, that’s an easy enough matter, too, courtesy of the internet. With a few clicks of the mouse, a lovely Cheddar made in England, Ireland, or even Australia, can be wending its way toward your very door. Cheddar Producers & RetailersBelow, in alphabetical order, are some cheese websites and producers who can give you a taste of Cheddars from all over the world.
© Copyright 2005-2008 Lifestyle Direct, Inc. All rights reserved. Images are the copyright of their respective owners.
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