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Enoki Mushrooms
Photo of enoki mushrooms by Kelly Cline | IST.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

 

CAITLIN BARRETT is a member of THE NIBBLE editorial staff. She wishes that she could make a joke here about being a “fun guy.”

 

 

November 2005
Updated August 2007

Product Reviews / Main Nibbles / Vegetables

Types Of Mushrooms

Three Cheers for the Fungus Among Us

Depending on how old you are, once upon a time “gourmet” meant that you bought your white button mushrooms fresh, instead of in a can. Today, “gourmet” means that you don’t buy white button mushrooms at all.

Mushrooms are one of the most exciting and versatile categories of food. They instantly turn a plain piece of meat or chicken, or a bare bowl of pasta, into a gourmet feast. But most people aren’t aware of how glorious the world of mushrooms is. Asian markets, farmers markets, online retailers and specialty grocers are ready to enrich your plate with a selection of mushrooms that bear little resemblance to the cute, though not too flavorful, fellow that has long been resident wrapped in plastic in your supermarket produce section.

The popularity of specialty mushrooms can be attributed to a change in mushroom farming in the late 1970s and early 1980s. At that time, owners of mushroom farms and wild mushroom hunters began to introduce the public to unique varieties of fungi that most people had never seen before. It is hard to imagine a time when the meaty portobello wasn’t a household name; but without this big boy, we would still be feasting on snowy white buttons. We would never know the light crunch of raw enoki, the hearty, meaty and smokey taste of shiitakes and the nutty flavor that sautéed Mushroommorels bring to a dish.

Some of the tastiest and most interesting mushrooms are wild, but only about three percent of the wild mushrooms in the world are suitable for human consumption. Translation: “not suitable” means poisonous, so don’t go picking the mushrooms that sprout up in your yard after a damp spell or the beauties you find while hiking the woods. It takes extensive training to identify an edible mushroom, so avoid the romantic (and economical) temptation to “pick your own.” (We’ve recommended a book at the end of this article if you want to learn to identify edible mushrooms.)
Mushroom photo by David Guglielmo.

Buying Mushrooms

Many retailers carry wild mushrooms, and when the wild varieties are not in season, cultivated varieties meet market needs. If your local purveyors don’t carry much fresh stock, that needn’t impair your enjoyment. Specialty stores and online retailers carry a wide variety of fresh and dried mushrooms. Dried mushrooms can be reconstituted in water and used as you would fresh mushrooms. They’ll taste just as good—and be sure save the liquid for soups and stocks!

  • Store mushrooms in the refrigerator in a paper bag or wrapped in paper towels. Never store them in plastic bags: it increases the humidity which causes more rapid deterioration. Even the heartiest mushroom won’t last more than a few days, so buy only what you need fresh. Keep dried stock in the pantry.
  • To prepare mushrooms, first use a sharp knife to trim any tough or woody sections off the base of the stem. Next, they must be cleaned. Wait until right before they are to be used.
  • There are different schools of thought on how to clean a mushroom. The classically-trained insist on simply brushing off the dirt with a mushroom brush. The finicky claim that a more thorough cleansing via a vigorous rinse right before use is best. This is abhorred by the classicists because porous mushrooms absorb water.
  • We fall in the middle, first brushing and then removing any remaining dirt with a damp paper towel.

What mushrooms should you buy?  There are so many choices, you can focus on a different mushroom every month and try different recipes to see how you enjoy it best. 

  • Quickie Recipe: One of our favorite “luxury” dishes that never fails to impress guests is simply sautéing a mixture of wild mushrooms in garlic with butter and wine. It can be served as a first course by itself, topped with parmesan curls or snipped chives; as a side with any meat or poultry; or as a topping on pasta. 
  • It’s an opportunity to show off one of your fine red wines as well: the dish is exciting and profound but not so complex as to detract from the complexities of the wine.

Here are 17 wonderful varieties of mushroom that can easily be integrated into everyday cooking. This is by no means an exhaustive list. Certain mushrooms work better than other in certain dishes, and we have tried our best to make suggestions as to how each variety fits into each dish. We encourage you to experiment as well, and tell us about your favorites.  Visit the websites of the retailers below, read the books, and most important, keep experimenting! And for your glorious mushroom dishes, earthy red wines, such as Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, are the best partners.

Mushroom Glossary

Once, we had to wait for glorious mushrooms to come into season to enjoy them fresh, although dried versions are always available to add flavor to soups, stews and stocks. Today, many varieties are cultivated year round, transporting us to mushroom heaven. Mushrooms add wonderful flavor and have minimal calories. Experience all of them—the flavors are so different.

My Name Get To Know Me

Cèpe, Cep, Porcini or King Boletes

Robust, meaty cèpes/porcinis can be “normal” size, two inches in diameter, or can grow to a giant eight-inch diameter, when the cap will expand from umbrella-shaped to nearly flat. The color ranges from yellow brown to dark red brown, with a firm, smooth, moist texture. Ancient Greeks and Romans prized these stubby mushrooms. Today they are enjoyed as culinary gems all over the world. Prevalent in French cuisine, cèpes are added to tarts and buttery dishes. They are prevalent in Italian sauces, pastas and risottos. Even the liquid from soaking the dried porcinis is a delicious ingredient in soups and sauces. They are available fresh June through November. The heartiest, most savory of dried mushrooms, they are essential in deep-flavored sauces.

Porcini
Photo courtesy of Fabio Pusterla.

Chanterelle

The most delicate and refined of wild mushrooms, chanterelles have notes of apricot in both their scent and the taste—and their color, as well. They can range from pale orange to a golden apricot color. Chanterelles are tender yet firm and their wild flavors will shine even when they are used with many ingredients, and they are exquisite when breaded and fried. They are available fresh during the all and winter (and dried year round).

Chanterelle
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Chicken Of The Woods Mushroom

Not to be confused with the Hen Of The Woods (Maitake), the chicken of the woods got its name because it has the texture of cooked chicken, even shredding the way chicken meat does. It is popular with vegetarians who substitute it for chicken. The mushroom is also known as the sulphur shelf mushroom.

Chicken Of The Woods Mushroom
Photo by Lev Radin | IST.

Clamshell Mushroom

All varieties of clamshell mushrooms have a taste that is somewhat evocative of the shellfish, but that doesn’t mean that they aren’t a versatile mushroom. They aren’t best eaten raw, but can be blanched quickly and then cooled for use in sandwiches and salads. Clamshell mushrooms pair well with seafood and meats and are excellent for tempura. Look for the Brown Clamshell and Alba Clamshell (pictured at right).

Alba clamshell
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Cremini or Crimini or Brown

Creminis are similar in size and shape to the white button mushroom, though tan to brown in color and far meatier and earthier in taste with a firmer texture (they taste similar to button mushrooms). Creminis are actually portobello mushrooms that have been harvested while they are young, while the veil still covers the gill surface. They are excellent uncooked, as crudités or sliced into a salad; and are good stuffed, breaded and fried, sautéed, marinated, and in sauces, stocks and soups. They’re an especially good choice for kabobs. Creminis cook more firmly and with less shrinkage than classic whites; and are a great complement to any meat or vegetable dish. They are cultivated year round.

Crimini
Photo courtesy of Phillips Mushroom Farms.

Cultivated White Mushrooms or Button Mushrooms

Classic whites, the old reliables, can always be found at the supermarket, and when there aren’t any fresh ones there are always (gasp) the canned variety. They have a mild taste and gain flavor as they cook. If you want to make marinated mushrooms, stuffed mushrooms, or slice mushrooms into a salad, they are a cost-effective solution. Sautéed with butter and garlic, they are always a treat. They are cultivated year round.

 

Button MushroomsPhoto by Paul Cowan | BSP.

Enoki
(also called Enokitake, Enokidake, Nametake, Winter Mushroom, Snow Puff Mushroom, and Velvet Foot)

These long and slender mushrooms are almost too pretty to eat. They have a mild flavor, and can be used instead of sprouts for crunch in a sandwich; or, toss them into a salad (trim the spongy base) or stir fry. We like to tie them into a bouquet with a chive and use them as a garnish, or float a few delicate mushrooms atop soups. They are cultivated year round.

Enoki Mushrooms
Photo by Kelly Cline | IST.

Forest Nameko or Cinnamon Cap

This handsome, long-stemmed mushroom is great in light soups like miso or wonton soup. The slight crunch of these long-stemmed mushrooms adds texture. Nameko is often found pickled, for use in sauces and noodle dishes. They are available October through February.

Nameko
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Hen of the Woods or Maitake

The word “maitake” is Japanese for “dancing”; it is rumored that these mushrooms got their name because a discovery of maitake mushrooms was something to dance about. You can see why it is called “Hen of the Woods” in English. With a flavor that is bold and similar to a portobello, it is excellent baked, braised or sautéed with butter.

Maitake Mushroom
Photo courtesy of Bahasajapen.com

Morel or Sponge Mushroom

The shape of morels sets them apart from most other mushrooms (they’re also called “gnomes’ caps” and have a hollow interior [which must be rinsed before cooking]). Their intense, nutty and earthy flavor tastes wonderful when sautéed simply in olive oil or butter; and they are heaven with beef. Morels are a great enhancement to gravies and stews in place of (or in addition to) meat. Morels are a spring mushroom, typically available fresh from April 1 to May 31 and are worth buying while they are available. However, good news: Success has finally been achieved in cultivating them, so we can look forward to having them fresh year-found.

Morels
Photo courtesy of Caviar Russe.

Oyster Mushroom

Oyster mushrooms have a velvety texture that is reminiscent of its namesake. All varieties are stunning—see the Baby Blue Oyster mushrooms at right. You can also find them in pink, as well as the more standard off-white, yellow, and grey-brown colors. They have prominent, ridged gills on the underside. While the flavor is delicate, they look beautiful. Toss them into a salad; sauté lightly with chicken, pork or seafood; or use them as a beautiful garnish. (Be sure to include them in your mixed wild mushroom dishes.)  They are available year round.

Baby Blue Oyster Mushrooms
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Porcini

See Cep.

 

Portabella or Portobello

Cremini mushrooms grow up into more complex-flavored portabellas, meaty in both taste and appearance—they can be 3 to 10 inches in diameter. Like meat, they even release juices when cooked. Vegetarians enjoy them grilled in lieu of beef, and they make wonderful grilled vegetable sandwiches. They are brown, with a slightly firmer texture than white mushrooms, and can be served whole or sliced, stuffed or as “burgers.” For a simple starter, serve sliced grilled portobello drizzled with a balsamic reduction. They are available fresh from December to March and cultivated year round.

Portabella Mushrooms
Photo courtesy of AllSeasonsMushrooms.com.

TIP: Cook Portabellas gills down for the first 10 minutes to allow moisture to escape.

Shiitake or Black Forest or Chinese Black Mushroom or Japanese Black Mushroom

Shiitake mushrooms are not black, but chocolaty brown, with an umbrella-shaped cap and a fibrous, woody stem. They are found in most supermarkets, and are utilized most often in Asian cuisine. Far from being limited to Asian dishes, however, shiitakes are hearty and meaty and hold up well in stews, omelets, pizzas and Italian dishes—their firm texture affords a long cooking time. Fresh or dried, they make an excellent gravy that would please herbivores, carnivores and omnivores alike. They are cultivated and available year round.

Shiitake Mushroom
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Straw Mushroom

Fresh straw mushrooms are not widely available in the U.S. and few of us would even recognize them if we saw them: they look almost like quail eggs, with unopened “veils.” Most people are familiar with the canned variety of straw mushrooms (see photo at right), which are often found in Asian dishes and are easy to find in most Asian supermarkets. Dried straw mushrooms can be found in many Chinese markets and are just as delicious as the fresh variety. Use them in stir-fries, sauces or in beef dishes.

Straw Mushrooms
Photo by Joe B. | Morguefile.

Truffle ~ Black and White

A type of subterranean mushroom, truffles are prized around the world for their heady culinary powers. No one has figured out how to cultivate them, and since they are found usually about a foot underground, specially trained dogs or pigs are needed to sniff for them. A kilogram of black truffles can sell in the U.S. for well over a thousand dollars; white truffles are even more costly. But a little goes a long way: most cooks shave a small amount of the truffle into pates, egg dishes, pasta, and even mashed potatoes. Only a truly wealthy and decadent person would cook whole truffles the way one cooks other fungus: the flavor is actually too strong to be enjoyed whole. White truffles may be eaten raw, while black truffles must be cooked. Store them in a container of dry white rice. This will keep them fresh and flavor the rice with the great taste of truffles. The harvest season in the Périgord and Italy is October through November, sometimes longer; however, black truffles are now coming from China and other parts of the world. Read our comprehensive article on truffles for more information.

Black truffles
Black truffles from the Himalayas. Photo courtesy of CaviarRusse.com.
white truffleThe famous White Truffle of Alba, or Tuber magnatum pico. Photo courtesy of Abrate & Sons.

Trumpet Royale or Black Trumpet or Horn of Plenty or Trompette

These mushrooms are thick and meaty and can easily be used as part of a main course. Sauté in them in garlic, butter and parsley or replace use them as a substitute for ground beef in lasagna.

trumpet royale
Photo courtesy of Gourmet Mushrooms, Inc.

Wood Ear

This variety of mushroom is prevalent in Asian cooking. It is easy to identify, as it resembles a human ear, the surface is purplish-gray in color and the flesh is a dark purplish gray to almost black. While it doesn’t have much flavor of its own, it has firm, gelatinous texture and takes on the flavors of the foods it is cooked with. For the best results, soak wood ears in water to soften them before cutting them into pieces.

Wood Ears
Photo courtesy of Woodland Foods.

Online Retailers

For more information about purchasing specialty mushrooms, check out the selection at the following companies, that carry many of the mushrooms listed and have in-depth information for mushroom lovers and those who are new to the fantastic world of edible fungus:

Get to know mushrooms a little better with these books and handy tools:
Fresh Morels
A wild morels. Photo by David Banks | Sxc.

Learn More About Mushrooms

Complete Mushroom mushrooms Edible Wild Mushrooms
The Complete Mushroom Book, by Antonio Carluccio. A great collection of mushroom recipes that feature a wide variety of mushrooms. Click here for more information or to purchase. Mushrooms Demystified, by David Arora. Learn all about our favorite fungus and the history and terminology associated with them. Click here for more information or to purchase. Edible Wild Mushrooms of North America, by David W. Fischer. Aspiring mushroom hunters will find this guide essential when identifying wild mushrooms. Click here for more information or to purchase.
Vegetable Brushes slicer shittake mushroom kit
Norpro 4-Piece Vegetable Brush Set. Every kitchen should have a set of these brushes, perfectly sized for cleaning mushrooms, corn, and potatoes. Click here for more information or to purchase. Progressive Mushroom and Egg Slicer. This slicer produces thin and even slices in seconds, without the need to go to Benihana school.  Click here for more information or to purchase. Fungi Perfecti Shiitake Mushroom Kit. Cultivate your own mushrooms right at home. A great hostess gift, a fun and foolproof family project. Click here for more information or to purchase.

 

© Copyright 2005-2008 Lifestyle Direct, Inc. All rights reserved.  Images are the copyright of their respective owners.




 

 

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