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Top Pick Of The Week

July 28, 2009

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Peach Melba Ice Cream

Jeni’s Peche Melba dessert is elegant yet easy to make: Grill peaches brushed with butter and brown sugar, top with Jeni’s Honey Vanilla Bean ice cream, drizzle with raspberry sauce (purée raspberries, sweeten to taste) and sprinkle with crushed almond macaroons. Photo courtesy of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams.

WHAT IT IS: Some of the country’s finest artisan ice cream.
WHY IT’S DIFFERENT: Made in small batches by dedicated ice cream artisans who want to deliver a memorable ice cream experience.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Very special flavors, very high quality and definitely worth sending for.
WHERE TO BUY IT: JenisIceCreams.com.
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Best Ice Cream:
Page 2b: Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams, Continued

 

INDEX OF REVIEW

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MORE TO DISCOVER

 

More Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream

Continuing with the splendidness, there’s:

Pistachio Ice Cream. We started to indulge in pistachio hot fudge sundaes with our mother in early childhood, at a famous chain that no longer exists. The pistachio ice cream was smooth and light green with large nuggets of pistachio nuts. From this early imprinting, pistachio became a favorite flavor; we sought it everywhere. But as our palate evolved (and possibly, as companies cut corners on ingredients), we began to taste the pistachio extract, even in natural brands that didn’t use artificial green coloring.

Jeni’s is perhaps the first “real” pistachio ice cream we’ve ever had. It’s the color of roasted pistachio nuts—rich beige—and it’s so dense with ground nuts (including a few bitter almonds to round out the flavor) that it might have as much protein as a proper meal. If you’re not a honey lover, no fear: The honey isn’t detectable amid all the nuttiness, and the bonus is that it’s a lower glycemic sweetener than sugar.

 

Pistachio Ice Cream
Jeni’s Pistachio and Honey Ice Cream: Not green, just gorgeous. Photo by Emily Chang | THE NIBBLE.

We wouldn’t let a drop of hot fudge or whipped cream get in the way of this gorgeous pistachio ice cream, but we would put the ice cream on top of a slice of chocolate (or regular) pound cake.

Salty Caramel Ice Cream. This flavor is sweeping the nation in artisan dessert circles, inspired by the proliferation of salt caramels in chocolate shops (see our review of the best salt caramels). Caramel ice cream is not sweet like butterscotch; it will appeal to those who like coffee and nut ice creams. To those who don’t like salt: You won’t find the sea salt very prominent. Those who do want a sweet-and-salty experience can sprinkle extra sea salt on top—just as is done with the caramels.

Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream
Adding buttermilk to the ice cream recipe provides richness and the “special something” you find in buttermilk biscuits and buttermilk fried chicken. Photo by Emily Chang | THE NIBBLE.

 

Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream. Buttermilk ice cream is an old recipe, but has surfaced at more than a few artisan ice creameries recently. Buttermilk is curdled milk, like yogurt. The flavor differs depending on how much is used in the recipe—some are all buttermilk, some, like Jeni’s, substitute buttermilk for some of the regular milk. The results range from a yogurt-like tang to a nontangy but perceptibly rich layer of flavor—as in buttermilk biscuits, devil’s food cake and buttermilk fried chicken. Jeni’s Strawberry Buttermilk ice cream harkens back to a Charlotte Russe—not sweet but very rich and berry like. For an elegant dessert, we served it with ripe summer strawberries in aged, sweet balsamic vinegar.

Sweet Corn and Black Raspberries Ice Cream. There’s one burning question here: Why doesn’t everyone make sweet corn ice cream? If you’ve ever near-swooned over fresh-picked ears of summer corn, bursting with sugar, that’s what this ice cream tastes like—the colder, fraternal twin of that steaming corn on the cob. The handmade black raspberry sauce sets off the corn ice cream perfectly—it’s a sundae in a pint. It’s also a memorable ice cream experience. (See photo.)

We only disagree with Jeni’s on one point. Each pint says, "Please enjoy and share with a friend.” No way, guys—they’re not getting a drop. Maybe after our fifth or sixth order, we’ll start to feel more generous.

— Karen Hochman

JENI’s SPLENDID ICE CREAMS

SIGNATURE ICE CREAM FLAVORS: Belgian Milk Chocolate, Black Coffee, Bourbon Buttered Pecan, Dark Chocolate, Gravel Road, Honey Vanilla Bean, Pistachio and Honey, Queen City Cayenne, Salty Caramel, Thai Chili
SORBET: Cherry Lambic, Riesling Poached Pear
YOGURT: Lemon Yogurt

SUMMER ICE CREAM FLAVORS: Backyard Mint, Goat Cheese with Roasted Red Cherries, Kona Stout, Strawberry Buttermilk, Sweet Corn with Black Raspberries, Wildberry Lavender
SORBET: Berries & Burgundy

YOGURT: Apricot, Lemon and Blueberries, Raspberry with Fresh Raspberry Bits

Made With Organic Ingredients

  • 9 Pints
    $85.00

Purchase online* at JenisIceCreams.com

Stop in at any of Jeni’s 5 stores in the Columbus, Ohio area.

Jeni's Ice Creams
That’s the state of Ohio on the label. Photo by Emily Chang | THE NIBBLE.

Continue To Page 3: Silver Moon Desserts

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